Name: Steve Schultz
Birthday: March 27, 1984
Occupation: student/ employee at Boulder's climbing gym in Madison, WI
second part of my challenge is gonna take place on the wonderful
frictionless quartzite we've grown to love at devils lake.
Highball Slab at Burma-V2
|Part 1: Chaos Happens|
Chaos makes everything more interesting. The
first day went great at the holies sending the first V7, turkey jerky,
and a couple other classics as well as a highball. We stopped at
Casey's to get gas and start to drive to alabama for some sandstoney
goodness. As we tried to leave Tony's car decided that it had gone
far enough and wouldnt start. The tow truck arrived and we packed
all of the essentials into 2 cars and stayed the night thinking it was
just the timing belt and we could get it fixed in the morning.
Turns out that the timing belt pretty much exploded taking as much with
it as possible. After a failed attempt of acquiring a u-haul we
strapped all 9 pads onto the tops of the element and the explorer.
Packed 5 people into the explorer and 4 in the element along with almost
all of the gear we had arrived with, we headed for HP40.
When we arrived Alexis gave us in car directions to the "good" campsite. We pulled up a mere 50 from the nearest boulder. After a quick dinner we put the headlights on and started up again after a mandatory rest day. The first V4 was fairly quick to go down but a blast and a great start to the trip with a fun traverse and an uber slopey topout. After the first problem we started working a roof next to it. I pretty quickly decided to save my skin but Steve Day and Dane gave it some real good goes.
A quick note about what a dab is though. A dab is when your foot or any part of your body hits something not on the problem, like a tree, a person or the ground/pad. Even if it just touches for a millisecond it stops
your swing for a bit or it helps you stay on the problem. its cheating, and it pisses me off. This problem was made for dabbing and the whole time we were at our site people were trying this problem and dabbing to their hearts content. Alright, rant over.
The first full day at HP40 was spent getting an "awesome problem" tour from Alexis. I was able to get the rest of the 4's that day and 2 of the 5's. Every single problem i got on was a blast. Really fun lower section to a crazy slopey topout. We ended the day on millipede and bum boy, 2 classic sandbags. Steve Day and Dane were crushed, after working both problems for an hour and a half, when we told them that there weren't any sit starts but i give them a ton of credit on millipede. That sit start was brilliant.
The next day started off by doing the wasp and a couple of 6's next to it as well as another 5. All were once again awesome problems. After lunch we started wandering around and made our way over to turtle head and slushy puppy. After i humped the living daylights out of the turtle head we got on slushy puppy and slabolicious. Slushy puppy went down in 2 goes and the 6's were officially done. it was by far my favorite problem of the trip.
Soon after everyone started working it and all had
a good time with alexis taking 3 big falls off of the top moves, and
soon after vowing to come back the next day. Jason, Kelsen and I
booted up to try the low start which goes at V8. We were all just
sort of dinking around on it until Jason barely missed the hold.
Kelsen and I jumped at the chance to get it first. After a few
goes I was able to stick the lockoff and pull through the lower section
and into the stand start. Screaming the whole way up i fell on an
|Part 2: Oh, So Sweet Failure!|
alright, so we've figured out the